Weingut Herbert Messmer Burrweiler Altenforst Gewurztraminer Spatlese, Pfalz, Germany

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The Messmer 2008 Burrweiler Altenforst Gewurztraminer Spatlese smells of bacon fat, caraway, celery seed, and rose petal; saturates the palate with quite sweet herbal essences, subtly oily liquid rose perfume, and brown spices; and finishes with seductively soothing length, but with a slight impingement of residual CO2 helping to keep it refreshing, not heavy. While it would be nice (in Alsace, too!) to witness more well-balanced dry wines from this grape, there’s no question Messmer is one of several Pfalzer who has a distinctive and winning way with residually sweet Gewurztraminer. I suspect this would keep well for the better part of a decade, too, eventually losing some of its sense of sweetness. It had been too long since I’d seen Gregor Messmer (although I am at his winery annually) and I was encouraged by witnessing him professing his rededication to his vineyards. That said, after a 2007 collection that was the best I had tasted here in a number of years, I found that some of these 2008s – which were harvested between the 18th and 30th of October – leaned rather sharply in the direction of leanness and Sauvignon greenness and shared with many of their fellow Pfalz trocken Rieslings an extremely tart brightness.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Very elegant, showing the floral- and grapefruit-flavored side of this varietal. Drink now through 2002.??–BS??Region: Germany / Pfalz Select to Add