Hexamer Schlossbockelheimer In Den Felsen Riesling Spatlese Two Star

點擊次數(shù)：1667

The Hexamer 2009 Schlossbockelheimer in den Felsen Riesling Spatlese Two Star was harvested well after his top dry Riesling from this site, and in a young, relatively gentle parcel unusually characterized by the presence of roughly one-third each porphyry, Permian sandstone, and alluvial stones. Musk melon and papaya ripely scent and softly suffuse the palate of this caressingly creamy Riesling. As with the corresponding “two-star” Rheingrafenberg, a delightful undertone of salted caramel complements the lusciously lingering fruit, and hints of marzipan further enhance the confectionary impression of this soothing self-indulgence. I would look for 12-15 years of pleasure here. Harald Hexamer continues to expand his acreage in response to what I can well appreciate are almost irresistible offerings, and the latest round of sell-offs by one of the Nahe’s best-known and once-renowned estates at the beginning of 2011 is I suspect going to test the limits of Hexamer’s ambition and abilities to absorb yet more vineyards. (The number of 2009 vintage wines I have had to reference with A.P. #s due to there being alternate bottlings is in itself testimony to the rapid expansion of this estate.) No one who has followed this young grower over the past decade, though, can accuse him of lacking seriousness, and he has been subjecting his stylistic ideals and his accomplishments to rigorous examination, knowing he must balance the potential value of experimentalism with the need to focus both his attention to individual wines and his stylistic range. These latest results reveal a grower increasingly sure in touch and displaying a defter sense of balance at both the dry and sweet ends of the spectrum. By a considerable margin, they constitute this estate’s most consistently excellent collection in my experience. With the exception of a couple of partial lots of generic dry Riesling, no 2009s were de-acidified, and a majority of the dry wines kicked into spontaneous fermentation, although Hexamer brought cultured yeasts to bear in order to promote dryness. Both an Eiswein and a T.B.A. from the Rheingrafenberg were still fermenting in September and I’ll have to report on those along with Hexamer’s 2010s.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300