Weingut Hexamer Schlossbockelheimer In Den Felsen Riesling Qba Trocken, Nahe, Germany

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1960

The Hexamer 2009 Schlossbockelheimer in den Felsen Riesling trocken focuses on ripe peach, almond, and black currant for a sappy, satisfyingly juicy performance that combines breadth with levity. Less dynamic or interestingly mineral (though subtly saline) in character than Hexamer’s corresponding bottlings from Meddersheim sites, this benefited texturally from an extended period on the lees, which further fits into its relatively soothing personality. I would be inclined to enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. Harald Hexamer continues to expand his acreage in response to what I can well appreciate are almost irresistible offerings, and the latest round of sell-offs by one of the Nahe’s best-known and once-renowned estates at the beginning of 2011 is I suspect going to test the limits of Hexamer’s ambition and abilities to absorb yet more vineyards. (The number of 2009 vintage wines I have had to reference with A.P. #s due to there being alternate bottlings is in itself testimony to the rapid expansion of this estate.) No one who has followed this young grower over the past decade, though, can accuse him of lacking seriousness, and he has been subjecting his stylistic ideals and his accomplishments to rigorous examination, knowing he must balance the potential value of experimentalism with the need to focus both his attention to individual wines and his stylistic range. These latest results reveal a grower increasingly sure in touch and displaying a defter sense of balance at both the dry and sweet ends of the spectrum. By a considerable margin, they constitute this estate’s most consistently excellent collection in my experience. With the exception of a couple of partial lots of generic dry Riesling, no 2009s were de-acidified, and a majority of the dry wines kicked into spontaneous fermentation, although Hexamer brought cultured yeasts to bear in order to promote dryness. Both an Eiswein and a T.B.A. from the Rheingrafenberg were still fermenting in September and I’ll have to report on those along with Hexamer’s 2010s.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Hexamer’s 2008 Schlossbockelheimer in den Felsen Riesling trocken has its own particular sort of smokiness distinct from that of the corresponding Eisendell. High-toned almond extract and peach kernel bitterness also figure on the nose, while a waxy texture and considerable breadth mark a palate flavored with roast pumpkin and pink grapefruit, and with a satisfying underlying saline savor. Acidity is always lower in this site at a given must weight than in Meddersheim or Sobernheim, and in addition this wine underwent malo-lactic transformation. A hint of resulting milkiness is not badly integrated, and the generally soothing finishing character may in a positive way reflect the individual berries that Hexamer reports were a third bigger than those in his other Riesling sites. Harald Hexamer’s crew generally picked with two buckets this year, segregating botrytis fruit at the same time as that for the dry wines was gathered. The results in both genres sometimes lack a bit of refinement. Hexamer performed some pre-fermentative maceration; some de-acidification; and allowed or encouraged some lots to go through malo-lactic conversion, all in an effort to deal with his high 2008 acidities. Incidentally,he has begun installing the large wooden ovals made for him by Hosch from some exceptionally tight-grained old oaks in the estate, but he will be using them for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for a time in order to season them before they receive Riesling.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300