The Hexamer 2006 Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen Riesling Beerenauslese (from the steepest, middle portion of the site) delivers surprisingly fresh apricot, lily and hyacinth florality, honeyed secretion of botrytis, and lemony brightness and pungency. This might not be the most minerally complex wine in this year’s collection – for now, anyway – but it magnificently showcases the sheer richness and purity as well as uncanny delicacy that were possible this vintage. A look at the analysis will bewilder you: a high 9.5 alcohol, yet still more than 200 grams of residual sugar are left. If nothing else, this teaches you to beware of reading anything into numbers. And perhaps it highlights the magic “wine chemistry” and of a particular stuff, place and time – because make no mistake: there is a bit of magic in this glass. Revisit in 15 years and feel free to hold for 30.Harald Hexamer has made major strides since I last described his operation in these pages in issue 161, refining his approach in the vineyards and cellar, and acquiring astonishingly many new parcels, so that he now has three – and a majority share – in Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen, and owns or has under contract one-third of the entire Rheingrafenberg (including nearly all of the Eisendell). Hexamer sacrificed some of his remaining crossings in order to insure the harvest of healthy Riesling. His earliest-picked material tasted marginally under-ripe, but he did not finish until the 19th of October, and by then had amassed the finest collection I have tasted thus far at this address.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300