Grapefruit, lime, ginger, and fresh quince and apple scent Hexamer’s relatively late-harvested “one star” 2008 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese one star, which combines juicy brightness, elegance, and lift with an alluring hint of creaminess. Wet stone and fusil notes found in several of the Hexamer wines this vintage add attractive counterpoint, and a hint of honey in the long, buoyant, soothing, yet dynamic finish points toward a positive brush with botrytis. This should be a delight for at least 12-15 years. Harald Hexamer’s crew generally picked with two buckets this year, segregating botrytis fruit at the same time as that for the dry wines was gathered. The results in both genres sometimes lack a bit of refinement. Hexamer performed some pre-fermentative maceration; some de-acidification; and allowed or encouraged some lots to go through malo-lactic conversion, all in an effort to deal with his high 2008 acidities. Incidentally,he has begun installing the large wooden ovals made for him by Hosch from some exceptionally tight-grained old oaks in the estate, but he will be using them for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for a time in order to season them before they receive Riesling.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300