The 2004 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Eiswein exhibits pure apricot paste and lemon concentrate in the nose, as well as a less complex but cleaner and more sharply defined aroma than its botrytised-then-frozen Marbach sibling. The palate impression is similarly more refined, with vanilla cream and nut oil flavors buttressed by sheer fruit density and a satiny texture, while juicy lemon concentrate and jammy apricot essence extend their reach to the farthest corners of the mouth. An exercise in compression and palate saturation, this is nevertheless gloriously drinkable (as opposed to obsess-about-it or forget-it-for-a-decade) Eiswein. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300