Although picked earlier than the corresponding Altenberg, Hexamer’s 2006 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese trocken was riper, and its additional percentage of alcohol (for a total of 13.5%, following spontaneous fermentation) makes for more weight. That said, this reflects the Eisendell terroir and the very sparse, tiny berried vines of one particular parcel in its pungency and concentration of all elements including acidity. Distilled apricot, apricot kernel, and grapefruit in the nose set the tone for what follows. Smoky, citrus rind pungency informs a forceful though slightly strident finish. Give this until 2010 to show its true colors, although I do not count it a potential keeper. Harald Hexamer has made major strides since I last described his operation in these pages in issue 161, refining his approach in the vineyards and cellar, and acquiring astonishingly many new parcels, so that he now has three – and a majority share – in Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen, and owns or has under contract one-third of the entire Rheingrafenberg (including nearly all of the Eisendell). Hexamer sacrificed some of his remaining crossings in order to insure the harvest of healthy Riesling. His earliest-picked material tasted marginally under-ripe, but he did not finish until the 19th of October, and by then had amassed the finest collection I have tasted thus far at this address.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300