The 2008 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling trocken Eisendell continues to be labeled for its distinctive site within the official Einzellage Rheingrafenberg, and this year Hexamer determined to dispense with indications of Pradikat for his dry wines. This is pungently smoky throughout; palpably dense; and exhibits citrus zest and chewy pit fruit skin character that no doubt at least in part reflect pre-fermentative skin contact. There is an impressive sense of nutty richness that helps one forgive the slight phenolic rusticity, and finish certainly grips. I suspect this will be best drunk over the next 3-4 years. Harald Hexamer’s crew generally picked with two buckets this year, segregating botrytis fruit at the same time as that for the dry wines was gathered. The results in both genres sometimes lack a bit of refinement. Hexamer performed some pre-fermentative maceration; some de-acidification; and allowed or encouraged some lots to go through malo-lactic conversion, all in an effort to deal with his high 2008 acidities. Incidentally,he has begun installing the large wooden ovals made for him by Hosch from some exceptionally tight-grained old oaks in the estate, but he will be using them for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for a time in order to season them before they receive Riesling.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300