Representing a selection made in the Eisendell shortly ahead of the vintage’s Beerenauslese (which was struggling against botrytis bitterness and sheer sweetness when I tasted it), Hexamer’s “two star” 2008 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese two star was initially a bit closed-in and reduced, a circumstance possibly engendered or accentuated by its screw-cap bottling. A zesty pungency, oily textural richness, and suggestions of creaminess and honeyed botrytis tone contrast with the wine’s wet stone and fusil elements. It lacks the primary juiciness, lift, or follow-through of the corresponding “one star,” although that may in part be a function of its stage of evolution when I tasted. In tank, reports Hexamer, the “two star” was more open and eloquent than the “one star.” I’d want to re-taste this before prognosticating.Harald Hexamer’s crew generally picked with two buckets this year, segregating botrytis fruit at the same time as that for the dry wines was gathered. The results in both genres sometimes lack a bit of refinement. Hexamer performed some pre-fermentative maceration; some de-acidification; and allowed or encouraged some lots to go through malo-lactic conversion, all in an effort to deal with his high 2008 acidities. Incidentally,he has begun installing the large wooden ovals made for him by Hosch from some exceptionally tight-grained old oaks in the estate, but he will be using them for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for a time in order to season them before they receive Riesling.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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