Hexamer Riesling Spatlese Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg 2 star

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Originating in the so-called Birkenfelder that represents of the heart of its Einzellage, the Hexamer 2009 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese Two Star was picked late and with around 15% of its fruit lightly and freshly botrytized. “At this early stage,” remarks Hexamer, “I think the botrytis enhances the fresh, ripe fruit character, but soon thereafter it starts to erode that fruit.” This is creamier and even more soothing than the corresponding “one-star” Spatlese, but lacks that wine’s sense of refreshment and mineral interplay. Instead, there is a lovely undertone of salted caramel to complement ripe peach and quince. Subtle suggestions of freshly-baked bread reflect one aspect of the botrytis here. I would look for 15-20 years of satisfaction from this seamless and impeccably-balanced Spatlese. Harald Hexamer continues to expand his acreage in response to what I can well appreciate are almost irresistible offerings, and the latest round of sell-offs by one of the Nahe’s best-known and once-renowned estates at the beginning of 2011 is I suspect going to test the limits of Hexamer’s ambition and abilities to absorb yet more vineyards. (The number of 2009 vintage wines I have had to reference with A.P. #s due to there being alternate bottlings is in itself testimony to the rapid expansion of this estate.) No one who has followed this young grower over the past decade, though, can accuse him of lacking seriousness, and he has been subjecting his stylistic ideals and his accomplishments to rigorous examination, knowing he must balance the potential value of experimentalism with the need to focus both his attention to individual wines and his stylistic range. These latest results reveal a grower increasingly sure in touch and displaying a defter sense of balance at both the dry and sweet ends of the spectrum. By a considerable margin, they constitute this estate’s most consistently excellent collection in my experience. With the exception of a couple of partial lots of generic dry Riesling, no 2009s were de-acidified, and a majority of the dry wines kicked into spontaneous fermentation, although Hexamer brought cultured yeasts to bear in order to promote dryness. Both an Eiswein and a T.B.A. from the Rheingrafenberg were still fermenting in September and I’ll have to report on those along with Hexamer’s 2010s.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

From a warm parcel named after the nearby community of Birkenfeld whose nobility once owned it, the “two star” 2006 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese smells of peach preserves, spiced apple, and root beer. It is opulently rich and creamy with honey and caramel leavened by lime citricity. While lacking the mineral interest, clarity or sense of weightlessness conveyed by this year’s “one star” Spatlese, this represents a refined expression of very pure fruit and noble rot and should be capable of at least two decades worthwhile development. Harald Hexamer has made major strides since I last described his operation in these pages in issue 161, refining his approach in the vineyards and cellar, and acquiring astonishingly many new parcels, so that he now has three – and a majority share – in Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen, and owns or has under contract one-third of the entire Rheingrafenberg (including nearly all of the Eisendell). Hexamer sacrificed some of his remaining crossings in order to insure the harvest of healthy Riesling. His earliest-picked material tasted marginally under-ripe, but he did not finish until the 19th of October, and by then had amassed the finest collection I have tasted thus far at this address.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

This wine was recommended, but no tasting note was given.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300