Although harvested at the end, the 2006 Meddersheimer Altenberg Riesling Spatlese trocken – from a stony top portion of that site not unlike the Rheingrafenberg – preserves better clarity and refinement of fruit and mineral than many of the other dry Riesling in this year’s collection. Pit fruits and their pits, wet stone and savory salinity are the key themes, and the wine is full without being heavy, finishing with pungency and subtle spiciness but no excessive bitterness. It will be best enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. Harald Hexamer has made major strides since I last described his operation in these pages in issue 161, refining his approach in the vineyards and cellar, and acquiring astonishingly many new parcels, so that he now has three – and a majority share – in Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen, and owns or has under contract one-third of the entire Rheingrafenberg (including nearly all of the Eisendell). Hexamer sacrificed some of his remaining crossings in order to insure the harvest of healthy Riesling. His earliest-picked material tasted marginally under-ripe, but he did not finish until the 19th of October, and by then had amassed the finest collection I have tasted thus far at this address.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300