Hexamer Riesling Auslese

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From multiple pickings in the Rheingrafenberg and a bit of fruit from the Sobernheimer Marbach, Hexamer’s generic 2008 Riesling Auslese smells of lemon zest, radish, and pit fruit preserves. Peaches and yellow plums are shot through with fresh lemon on a dense, lush yet bright, as well as very sweet and oily, botrytis-slicked palate. Tasting like an Eiswein hybrid, this slightly inharmonious Riesling should have a decade or more year potential, but will it gain some complexity and elegance in the process? Harald Hexamer’s crew generally picked with two buckets this year, segregating botrytis fruit at the same time as that for the dry wines was gathered. The results in both genres sometimes lack a bit of refinement. Hexamer performed some pre-fermentative maceration; some de-acidification; and allowed or encouraged some lots to go through malo-lactic conversion, all in an effort to deal with his high 2008 acidities. Incidentally,he has begun installing the large wooden ovals made for him by Hosch from some exceptionally tight-grained old oaks in the estate, but he will be using them for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for a time in order to season them before they receive Riesling.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300