Hexamer Medersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Trocken XXL

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The 2008 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling trocken XXL represents a second year of bottling the product of fruit from top parcels (in this instance, the center portion of Eisendell) and labeling with Roman numerals that refer to yields of 30 hectoliters per hectare. Hexamer says that even with the low yields and tiny berries he was surprised when this reached 103 Oechsle at the beginning of November. That noted, a nose of parsnip and gooseberry – along with citrus oils – does not bespeak advanced phenolic evolution. The effect on the palate is as penetrating as its pungent aroma, but juicy citrus, glycerin, as well as the effect of contact with its fine lees until its May bottling helps steer the wine away from austerity, and it certainly preserves a formidable sense of sheer density. A bottle finished with cork leaned more toward the citric and succulent side while one finished with a screw cap exhibited greater pungency, presumably a function of a slightly more reductive state. This will be best enjoyed within 5-7 years. Harald Hexamer’s crew generally picked with two buckets this year, segregating botrytis fruit at the same time as that for the dry wines was gathered. The results in both genres sometimes lack a bit of refinement. Hexamer performed some pre-fermentative maceration; some de-acidification; and allowed or encouraged some lots to go through malo-lactic conversion, all in an effort to deal with his high 2008 acidities. Incidentally,he has begun installing the large wooden ovals made for him by Hosch from some exceptionally tight-grained old oaks in the estate, but he will be using them for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for a time in order to season them before they receive Riesling.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300