As good as Jade Mountain’s ’02 Syrah is, this is considerably better, if complexity and depth are the yardstick. It begins with an impressive burst of white pepper, and then floods the mouth with the plushest blackberry and cherry flavors. Ultimately, it’s the tannins that strike you. They’re soft as velvet, sweet, and as intricate as an old tapestry.——S.H.(10/1/2004)—— 94