Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Cote de Jouan

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The Brocard 2007 Chablis Cote de Jouan originates with young vines in a cru sector immediately north of Courgis. Especially citric and saline, with a silky texture that helps buffer the brightness of its acids, this is loaded with juicy yellow plum and lemon, finishes tart, but is attractively invigorating and admirably pure. I would plan to enjoy it over the next couple of years. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400