Julien Brocard Domaine de la Boissonneuse Chablis, Burgundy, France

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The 2009 Chablis (from vines in Prehy) is a rich, textured wine layered with juicy ripe peaches, floral honey and ripe fruit. It is an intense yet well-balanced wine with plenty of generosity all the way through to the creamy, silky finish. This is a fairly deeply-colored, rich wine, shaped by partial vinification and aging in oak. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Domaine de la Boissonneuse is part of Julien Brocard's collection of properties. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the wines are made in Brocard's large facility in Prehy. The 2009 harvest began in mid-September.No American importer.

From steep Kimmeridgian slopes between Courgis and Prehy, the Brocard 2008 Chablis Domaine de la Boissonneuse is more aromatically restrained than its Domaine Sainte Claire counterpart, but palpably dense and minerally intense to an almost severe degree. Salt and chalk deposits seem indelibly lodged to the gums even as fresh lemon serves from bright invigoration. This impressive, unrelenting generic bottling should be worth revisiting and will certainly hold well for at least 3-4 years, during which perhaps it will gain charm and generosity to accompany its formidable density and brightness. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) headed-up the Brocards’ 2008 efforts from start to finish, including a harvest that extended well into October, while Julien Brocard continues to up the percentage of acreage farmed biodynamically at this enormous property. (Tiny lady bugs and moons are scattered discreetly across the labels of those Brocard wines that issue from “bio” vineyards.) Due to time limitations, I did not taste the entire 2008 collection here, but every wine I tasted could be recommended and is included in this report.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400