The most concentrated of Roger’s wines this vintage – his 2005 Sancerre Vieilles Vignes – smells of sage, honeydew melon and gooseberry preserves. Rich and strikingly ripe if somewhat opaque on the palate, and with a faintly gummy, resinous note of oak that some tasters will find less disconcerting than did I, this finishes with positively honeyed concentration and bittersweet herbal inflections.A Christopher Cannan Europvin Selection (various importers), Bordeaux; fax 001-33-5 57-87-43-22.
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