Hand’s down, the best of Jorge Ordonez’s dessert-styled Moscatels is the Victoria. It’s floral and piercing on the nose, while the palate is ripe and smooth, with honeyed mango and pineapple flavors. Balanced like a gymnast on the beam, this sweetie is textured, rich and also a little bit racy.——M.S.(4/1/2007)—— 93