Weingut Josef Jamek Ried Klaus Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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A Jamek 2010 Riesling Smaragd Klaus is the latest in a rather long line to register at least 14% alcohol, but more importantly and unfortunately also to evince corresponding heat, but it boasts a level of flavor interest that could not remotely be ascribed to the corresponding bottling from the Freiheit. Juicy green apple and white peach support a vibrant interaction with peach kernel and apple pip piquancy; crushed stone; and saliva-liberating salinity. I expect this to be best drunk over the next half dozen years, but it might well acquire some additional depth and complexity along the way. Josef Jamek, apart from whose energy and insight the course of Austrian wine over the last quarter century can scarcely be imagined, died this March at the age of 92. I wish I could report with more consistent enthusiasm on recent vintages that son-in-law Hans Altmann, cellarmaster Volker Mader and their team have bottled, but results emerging from their impressive and relatively new cellar have been mixed, and disappointing relative to standards set here a decade and more ago (as further notes I’ll publish soon on wines of vintages 2008 and 2009 will more completely demonstrate). The biggest challenge in recent years seems to have been botrytis and at Smaragd level high alcohol and bitterness that too often attend it. That said, in 2010 one sometimes tastes the not quite successful struggle to get really ripe flavors. Altmann was among the few growers kind enough to show me complete analyses of malic and tartaric acid. They were sometimes near parity, but usually the former dominated. With regard to ameliorating total acidity, he pointed only to “massive tartrate precipitation” which he encouraged, but which of course could only reduce the level of tartaric.Importer: Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, CT (917) 742-0601

Perfumed, sweet aromas, but the palate is bone dry. The wine is tight, with a vibrant acidity, citrus, white currants and peach. A steely wine that needs a few years to really blossom. ——R.V.(10/1/2010)—— 93

Big and decadent, offering loads of rich, ripe apricot flavors, with grapefruit and lentil. Marzipan accents the spice-infused finish. Drink now through 2015. 292 cases made.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add

In line with its voluminous vintage predecessor, the Jamek 2007 Riesling Smaragd Klaus displays a high-toned peachy, spiritous nose, a peachy, oily richness on the palate, prickly manifestations of citrus rind and ginger, and the bitterness of peach kernel and toasted nuts. With such rich folds of fruit and a honeyed overlay, this manages to emphasize the noble side of botrytis, and to seduce without noticeable heat, even at 15% alcohol. I would however plan on watching it carefully over the next 3-5 years, lest its botrytis or alcohol play dirty tricks on it (and you). After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Lush and rich, with concentrated peach, apricot, vanilla and smoke flavors. Interesting notes of prosciutto and melon are wrapped inside this as well. The long finish features spice and cream. Drink now through 2020. 383 cases made, 5 cases imported.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add