Weingut Josef Jamek Jochinger Pichl Riesling Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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The Jamek 2010 Riesling Federspiel Jochinger Pichl fortunately blows past the corresponding Jochinger Berg bottling in expressiveness and ripeness. Hints of hedge flowers mingle with herbs on the nose, a lime and herb-broth palate impression picking up satisfying, saliva-inducing salinity in a juicy, refreshing finish. Enjoy this spare but energetic ambassador of vintage typicity over the next 18-24 months. Josef Jamek, apart from whose energy and insight the course of Austrian wine over the last quarter century can scarcely be imagined, died this March at the age of 92. I wish I could report with more consistent enthusiasm on recent vintages that son-in-law Hans Altmann, cellarmaster Volker Mader and their team have bottled, but results emerging from their impressive and relatively new cellar have been mixed, and disappointing relative to standards set here a decade and more ago (as further notes I’ll publish soon on wines of vintages 2008 and 2009 will more completely demonstrate). The biggest challenge in recent years seems to have been botrytis and at Smaragd level high alcohol and bitterness that too often attend it. That said, in 2010 one sometimes tastes the not quite successful struggle to get really ripe flavors. Altmann was among the few growers kind enough to show me complete analyses of malic and tartaric acid. They were sometimes near parity, but usually the former dominated. With regard to ameliorating total acidity, he pointed only to “massive tartrate precipitation” which he encouraged, but which of course could only reduce the level of tartaric.Importer: Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, CT (917) 742-0601

The Jamek 2007 Riesling Federspiel Jochinger Pichl offers another display of bright citricity, with lemon and grapefruit joined by green herbs, and a whiff of flowers and ocean breeze. With more succulence than its counterpart from the Jochinger Berg, this even displays a hint of textural creaminess, not to mention a delightfully refreshing finish. After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Jamek 2006 Riesling Federspiel Jochinger Pichl offers scents and flavors of pear and lemon, a glossy texture and ample ripeness, with a fine sense of delicacy and sheer refreshment in the finish. When I tasted at Jamek in June, three of their five Federspiel bottlings were already “drunk up” on the restaurant list, and there was no Steinfeder. What, I wondered, are the poor guests going to drink here in the heat of midsummer? It certainly was not going to have less than 13% alcohol. Ironically, few of the 2006s here were particularly ripe in flavors. Thankfully, though, there were no difficulties with botrytis at this address of the sort encountered in 2005.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Jamek’s 2005 Riesling Federspiel Jochinger Pichl is fresh, and invigorating, with fresh lime and tart, tiny black fruit flavors, and an infectiously engaging finish that makes up in length what it might miss in complexity. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Marienfeld (not available; 86), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Stein am Rain (not available; 84), 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten (not available; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300