Weingut Josef Jamek Ried Klaus Riesling Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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Apple blossom and hedge flowers as well as suggestions of wet stone scent Jamek’s 2010 Riesling Federspiel Klaus in a way that would have left me suspecting, if tasted blind, that it had came from neighboring Achleiten. Tart apple skin and bitter apple pit make for an invigorating but rather raw impression on a firm palate, with stony minerality outlasting the finishing fruit. I would drink this over the next couple of years. Josef Jamek, apart from whose energy and insight the course of Austrian wine over the last quarter century can scarcely be imagined, died this March at the age of 92. I wish I could report with more consistent enthusiasm on recent vintages that son-in-law Hans Altmann, cellarmaster Volker Mader and their team have bottled, but results emerging from their impressive and relatively new cellar have been mixed, and disappointing relative to standards set here a decade and more ago (as further notes I’ll publish soon on wines of vintages 2008 and 2009 will more completely demonstrate). The biggest challenge in recent years seems to have been botrytis and at Smaragd level high alcohol and bitterness that too often attend it. That said, in 2010 one sometimes tastes the not quite successful struggle to get really ripe flavors. Altmann was among the few growers kind enough to show me complete analyses of malic and tartaric acid. They were sometimes near parity, but usually the former dominated. With regard to ameliorating total acidity, he pointed only to “massive tartrate precipitation” which he encouraged, but which of course could only reduce the level of tartaric.Importer: Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, CT (917) 742-0601

There's good cut and definition to the mineral and ripe peach flavors, which linger on the finish with plenty of rich, spicy notes. Drink now through 2016. 1,047 cases made.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add

Jamek’s 2007 Riesling Federspiel Klaus – another instance where last year’s picking overshot the Federspiel mark in finished alcohol – may fit the category parameters, but is still an oily-textured, palpably dense wine dominated by smoky, pungent, faintly bitter citrus oil, peach kernel, and toasted nuts – as such more Smaragd in personality. A clinging but slightly severe finish incorporates site-typically stony suggestions. This should be interesting to follow for at least 4-5 years, although there is the residual worry that botrytis manifestations might begin to dominate. After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

With the 2005 Riesling Federspiel Klaus we gain significant dimensions of richness, decidedly exotic botrytis-born notes, and yet a certain airy openness and dynamic exchange of fruit and mineral flavors. The finish here – as in this year’s Gruner Veltliner Smaragd from the Achleiten – combines the spicy pungency of botrytis with salt and ore-like minerality of the site. There is an amazing amount of clarity and precision, along with bright acidity and ample refreshment value. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Marienfeld (not available; 86), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Stein am Rain (not available; 84), 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten (not available; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300