Josef Jamek Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) Federspiel Hochrain

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1345

Smelling floral and grassy like a new-mown meadow, the 12% alcohol Jamek 2010 Weissburgunder Federspiel Hochrain displays a buoyancy and juiciness that are extremely welcome in a bottling which for many years displayed delicious versatility but has let me down a few times in recent years. Green apple and raw hazelnut are tinged with salt in a lip-smacking if barely-ripe finish. This should prove useful but I would enjoy it over the next 18-24 months. (The similarly saline and subtly bitter corresponding Smaragd, while naturally more voluminous, was a bit less charming.) Josef Jamek, apart from whose energy and insight the course of Austrian wine over the last quarter century can scarcely be imagined, died this March at the age of 92. I wish I could report with more consistent enthusiasm on recent vintages that son-in-law Hans Altmann, cellarmaster Volker Mader and their team have bottled, but results emerging from their impressive and relatively new cellar have been mixed, and disappointing relative to standards set here a decade and more ago (as further notes I’ll publish soon on wines of vintages 2008 and 2009 will more completely demonstrate). The biggest challenge in recent years seems to have been botrytis and at Smaragd level high alcohol and bitterness that too often attend it. That said, in 2010 one sometimes tastes the not quite successful struggle to get really ripe flavors. Altmann was among the few growers kind enough to show me complete analyses of malic and tartaric acid. They were sometimes near parity, but usually the former dominated. With regard to ameliorating total acidity, he pointed only to “massive tartrate precipitation” which he encouraged, but which of course could only reduce the level of tartaric.Importer: Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, CT (917) 742-0601

The Jamek 2007 Weissburgunder Federspiel Hochrain smells of fresh apple, toasted hazelnuts, brown spices, and a hint of honey. A suggestion of tropical fruit joins in on a glossy-textured, quite rich, pungently botrytis-inflected palate yet ultimately satisfyingly juicy palate, and lime zest and salt add invigorating pungency to the finish. Again, I would plan to enjoy this relatively early for a wine of its type, namely over the next couple of years. (The corresponding Smaragd – as has happened more than once in recent years – was robbed of juiciness and charm by its botrytis and high alcohol.) After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

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