An especially sappy, bright, juicy expression of its varietal, Jamek’s 2007 Gelber Muskateller Federspiel is loaded with fresh lemon, pennyroyal, pine resin, and apricot, with deep notes of coffee and apricot kernel adding a bitter shading to its brisk finish. This excellent example of its type should prove versatile over the next 2-3 years. After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300