The 2006 Riesling Klaus – like the corresponding Gruner Veltliner from the Achleiten – was intended as Federspiel but overshot the mark in finished alcohol. Lemon and tangerine aromas and cool, juicy fruit character with melon, cress and citrus on the palate are underlain by a stony mineral cast hinting at this great site. The finish here is somewhat demure but satisfying and clear. When I tasted at Jamek in June, three of their five Federspiel bottlings were already “drunk up” on the restaurant list, and there was no Steinfeder. What, I wondered, are the poor guests going to drink here in the heat of midsummer? It certainly was not going to have less than 13% alcohol. Ironically, few of the 2006s here were particularly ripe in flavors. Thankfully, though, there were no difficulties with botrytis at this address of the sort encountered in 2005.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300