At 13%, the 2006 Riesling Smaragd Freiheit is relatively modest in alcohol for the vintage, but its peony floral scent; ripe flavors of pear and apple; and esterous, voluminous and glossy-texture palate impression, all contribute to a slight sensation of sweetness that is not unusual from this site. The finish, while not enormously complex, is clear, pure, succulent, and refreshing. When I tasted at Jamek in June, three of their five Federspiel bottlings were already “drunk up” on the restaurant list, and there was no Steinfeder. What, I wondered, are the poor guests going to drink here in the heat of midsummer? It certainly was not going to have less than 13% alcohol. Ironically, few of the 2006s here were particularly ripe in flavors. Thankfully, though, there were no difficulties with botrytis at this address of the sort encountered in 2005.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300