Keller Estate La Cruz Vineyard Syrah, Sonoma Coast, USA

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). Certainly not lacking in richness. Shows a huge blast of ripe raspberry and blackberry jam fruit, along with umami-rich bacon and plenty of sweet caramelized oak. The tannins are just about perfect. Delicious, but would benefit from greater subtlety and complexity beyond mere fruit. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 89

Very dry and pretty tannic, this cool-climate Syrah combines its blackberry and cherry fruit with less ripe notes of herbs and even a touch of asparagus. Intense umami flavors of salty, smoky bacon give it richness. Drink now. ——S.H.(3/1/2011)—— 88

A very fine Syrah, dry and rich, but also a very young one whose tannins now lock down the mouth with a sandpapery astringency. Yet with its complex array of blackberries and cherries, it should evolve through the next 4–6 years, gradually picking up interest.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 89

The vineyard is in the Petaluma Gap, a wind tunnel you’ll be hearing more about as the source of cool-climate wines. This lusty Syrah is enormously fruit-forward in cherries, blackberries, coffee, beef carpaccio and peppery spice flavors, an exuberant wine balanced with crisp acids. Drink now through 2009.——S.H.(12/31/2007)—— 89