Another uncannily well-balanced and dry tasting Kerpen offering, his 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese feinherb smells of apple blossom; toasted hickory and almond; and piquant apple pit. Texturally refined and delicate on the palate, it works its bitter elements into an alluringly floral and lusciously apple-fruited inner-mouth performance, finishing with the classic wet stone marker of Mosel slate. This should retain its balance over the coming decade, during which will probably gain in complexity. In recent years, Martin Kerpen has increasingly proven himself a master of dry Riesling, and the acid structure and relatively moderate accumulation of grape sugar relative to phenolic ripeness that characterize 2008 played into his skilled hand in that genre, in which, additionally, he relied increasingly this year on ambient yeasts. (Of course, he is adept with residually sweet Riesling as well.) it's interesting to study Kerpen's detailed map of vineyard parcels, incidentally, and to see how after the controversial Flurbereinigung or general vineyard restructuring and replanting that is now under way in Wehlen, he will end up with around 8-9 parcels - some identical to his current acreage - or about half the number into which his total landholdings are morsellated at present.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300