The Knoll 2007 Riesling Federspiel Loibenberg – like its generic counterpart – features pumpkin and lemon oil, here with apricot and nut oil suggestions. An admirable sense of textural richness is combined with grip and phenolic penetration, yet this remains very much Federspiel in its infectious refreshment, fleetness of foot, and sense of transparency to saline, iodine, stony mineral nuances. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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