5 This bottling, from the vineyard high up on Atlas Peak, is establishing itself as a real benchmark. The ’07 is smooth and rich and vast in flavor, offering waves of blackberries, cherry pie, cassis and blackstrap molasses, with a delicious coating of sweet, smoky oak. It’s impressive in youth, but so balanced, it should easily negotiate the years. ——S.H.(4/1/2011)—— 95