The 2003 Blaufrankisch was harvested a whole month earlier than the 2004 after a summer of searing heat, and not surprisingly exhibits a very different personality. More cooked black fruit is in evidence on the nose, in the mouth the wine is rounder and softer, yet there is still an attractive, salty sense of minerality as well as an iron-filing note complicating the fruit on the palate, and a solid finish. (The 2002 – without going into details since it is no longer for sale – was particularly well-balanced and had developed fine complexity.) Krutzler’s Reserve bottling, from 25 to 40 year-old vines, was in its 2001 edition floral, mineral, and very satisfyingly clear in fruit, whereas the 2003 – although matured in ovals and in older barriques, seemed overly woody to my palate, with the fruit and mineral flavors obscured. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700