La Chablisienne Montee de Tonnerre, Chablis Premier Cru, France

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3432

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is showing well, opening in the glass with aromas of crisp green apple, citrus oil, white flowers, pastry cream and smoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad-shouldered and powerful, with a deep core of ripe fruit, bright acids and saline finish. Reserved without being austere, it will reward some bottle age.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre exhibits notes of fresh white peach, citrus oil and beeswax. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and blocky, with a layered mid-palate and succulent acids.

The 2015 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre, like La Chablisienne's C?te de Léchet, performed impressively during my blind tastings. This comes from 25-year-old vines and spent 15 months on the fine lees in stainless steel and oak barrels. It has an accomplished bouquet, very precise with gunflint, smoke and light Golden Delicious aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, very harmonious with a caressing, slightly pithy but detailed finish that is subtle but captivating. At this price, any Chablis-lover can have absolutely no complaints.

The 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre has a stern and stony bouquet, very Chablis in style, intense and a bit mean maybe. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, hints of apricot and fresh white peach; there is great tension here that lends to the focus and penetration. With the salinity kicking in on the finish, this forms a great little Montée de Tonnerre that should age nicely over 8-10 years.

The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre has a very reserved, slightly muted bouquet compared to its peers, despite rigorous coaxing. The palate is balanced, quite phenolic in the mouth with pear skin and nectarine toward the finish. What it lacks is requisite tension and nervosité.