La Chablisienne Pas Si Petit, Petit Chablis, France

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La Chablisienne produces three different cuvées of Petite Chablis, but the 2017 Petit Chablis "Pas Si Petit" is the emblematic bottling and the largest in volume. Offering up aromas of peaches and apples, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and open-knit, with a delicately textural attack and a saline finish. Hervé Tucki tells me that the objective is to give this bottle 12 months' élevage in tank, but the small crops and the need for wine to sell meant that this 2017 saw a bit less.

The 2016 Petit Chablis "Pas Si Petit" has a clean and precise gunflint bouquet that display more intensity than many of its peers. The palate disappoints after that, especially due to a jarring green note on the finish that leaves distaste in the mouth. After enjoying the previous two vintages so much, this came as somewhat of a disappointment.

The 2015 Petit Chablis "Pas Si Petit" which spent six months on the fine less, has a fresh, green apple and yellow plum-scented bouquet (also an odd, white rice-like scent!). The palate is pretty but simple with a touch of bitter lemon, but it flatlines a little toward the finish. I find this better than the 2016 (both were tasted blind).

The 2014 Petit Chablis "Pas Si Petit" has a more intense bouquet than I was anticipating with Granny Smith apples and cold wet granite scents. The palate is balanced with a slightly honeyed tincture on the entry. This has very good weight, a powerful and possibly later picked Petit Chablis that just needs a little more tension and nerve on the finish. Otherwise, this should give plenty of drinking pleasure over the next 3-4 years.

The 2013 Petit Chablis "Pas Si Petit" has a forward, melon and tropical fruit-tinged bouquet that is clean and quite pleasant, but perhaps does not evoke images of chalky Chablis slopes. The palate is ripe and rounded on the entry with honeyed fruit, but it feels flaccid and lacks tension on the finish. Go for the 2014 folks.