La Chablisienne Les Venerables Vieilles Vignes, Chablis, France

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La Chablisienne's most serious village wine is the 2017 Chablis Les Vénérables Vieilles Vignes, a cuvée produced from vines averaging 50 years of age. It is only released once it has a bit of bottle age: the 2015 is currently being commercialized. It's more reserved, unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, textural and layered, with excellent concentration and tension, concluding with a precise and penetrating finish.

A cuvée produced from vines that are around 50 years old, the 2016 Chablis Les Vénérables Vieilles Vignes matured on the lees for 18 months. It's an elegantly textural, medium-bodied wine with a bouquet of green apples, white flowers and citrus, concluding with a clean, saline finish.

The 2015 Chablis les Venerables Vieilles Vignes is maybe a bit misleading since the vines average 35 years old—they're mature, but there are countless older parcels in the region. It spent 14 months on the lees in both stainless steel and oak barrels. It has a simple, slightly waxy bouquet that opens nicely in the glass, traces of granite developing with aeration and a touch of blackcurrant leaf. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity: very spicy in the mouth at first, although it calms down toward a harmonious finish. Enjoy this over the next three or four years.

The 2014 Chablis les Venerables Vieilles Vignes comes from 50-year-old vines. It was showing a pleasant reduction on the nose. It works well here and does not obscure tension and typicité. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with hints of mandarin and citrus lemon. The wine is harmonious and well balanced with a touch of white peach enhancing the finish. Enjoy this over the next 5-7 years.

The 2013 Chablis les Venerables Vieilles Vignes comes from 50-year-old vines and sees no oak contact. It has a peachy nose with light lemon sherbet scents that are commercially savvy but do not really reflect Chablis terroir. The palate is light and playful, a keen line of acidity, but there is a clear lack of fruit intensity on the rather skinny finish.