Carillon’s 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet incorporates his third harvest from Chardonnay vines with which he replaced Pinot Noir in the premier cru Macherelles. Smoky and alkaline mineral notes in the nose anticipate the rather overtly stony, alkaline, saline palate impression, although this is allied to considerable fullness and no hardness. Lemon and nut oils make for a combined tartness and piquancy. This lacks the refinement and transparent sense with which the corresponding Puligny finished, and I would favor drinking it within the next 2-3 years.
Carillon started picking the last of August, which he points out is exactly a week later than conventional calculations based on the early date of flowering would have led one to predict. He chaptalized most wines around a degree, to arrive at finished alcohol levels of 13-13.5% Carillon’s wines spend approximately a year in barrel – 15-20% new – with the lees stirred, followed by six months in tank.
Importers: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990 and Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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