The Drouhin 2007 Echezeaux is like some spiced syrup of cherry and red raspberry with a bit of rhubarb tossed in for tartness. Leathery, smoky overtones add some interest, and this is impeccably balanced in terms of its supple feel, subtle shadings from barrel, and welcome hint of energy. A bit of bitterness creeps into the finish but it is not irritating and arguably helps set the fruit in relief. Delicious – if by no means rivetingly complex – as it is, I would expect to prefer enjoying this over the next 3-4 years but estimate that it will hold well for at least half a dozen. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted).Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
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