The Mantlerhof 2007 Riesling Auslese Steindl smells and tastes exotically ripe, with peach, maracuja, and pineapple on a lushly-textured yet satisfyingly juicy palate, its sweetness nicely offset by refreshing acids and complimented by peach kernel bitterness. Rich nougat, coffee, and spicy notes of botrytis add to the sense of richness, yet (even at 13.5% alcohol) this preserves admirable clarity, levity and vivacity. I would not be at all surprised to witness more than a decade’s work of fascination emerging from bottle. An Auslese from Gruner Veltliner which Mantler did not declare as such since, he says, it “took me by surprise” was less well-balanced. Incidentally, I did not taste the 2007 Riesling Tiefental, which was still in barrel last June. The 2007 Riesling Wieland wore somewhat awkwardly its alcohol, its milkiness, and its 17 grams of residual sugar – left behind by Mantler as the price of arresting the wine’s malo-lactic conversion before it proceeded apace. It is always a fascinating fun to chat and taste with Josef Mantler, who generously opens ancient bottles from his remarkable reserves for many of his visitors, especially in order to point to the complex virtues and longevity of difficult vintages. I am not sure whether 2007 will go down in his annals as difficult, but he certainly scored numerous successes this year. Mantler – who practices biodynamic viticulture – harvested most of this crop in late September and early October.Importer:Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel (510) 549 2444