Mantler’s 2007 Roter Veltliner Reisenthal smells smoky, pungently zesty and spicy, and shows its alcohol as a bit of heat. That said, this is certainly an impressively dense wine, tart rhubarb and green apple mingling with musk melon and leading to a vigorously sappy, smoky, sultry finish. One wonders whether this will become warmer or rougher with age, although the track record suggests that nearly any Mantlerhof Roter Veltliner is at least a ten year wine. It is always a fascinating fun to chat and taste with Josef Mantler, who generously opens ancient bottles from his remarkable reserves for many of his visitors, especially in order to point to the complex virtues and longevity of difficult vintages. I am not sure whether 2007 will go down in his annals as difficult, but he certainly scored numerous successes this year. Mantler – who practices biodynamic viticulture – harvested most of this crop in late September and early October.Importer:Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel (510) 549 2444