Kreydenweiss’s 2008 Riesling Andlau brims with fresh apple and lime, laced with raw almond. Crisp and juicy while at the same time satiny in texture, it offers another excellent example of how malo-lactic transformation in this vintage need by no means have led to awkwardness or lack of vintage-typical verve and sap. Lime peel, apple skin, and crushed stone lend piquant invigoration and supplemental cut to the finish without diminishing the sense of refreshment. Enjoy this over the next half dozen years. Antoine Kreydenweiss insisted that this wine was simply not expressing its complexity on the occasion of my visit, although I would otherwise have had no grounds for disappointment. Antoine Kreydenweiss is now running his family’s Alsace domaine on an ongoing basis, while his father Marc concentrates on their property in the Costieres de Nimes. I was dismayed – especially in view of such high-quality 2009s and 2008s – to learn that this justly-renowned domaine for the time being no longer has a U.S. importer. Most of the 2008s received 15 months’ elevage. The 2009s were all harvested early even by vintage standards and harbor nuances not found in most Alsace wines of their vintage, being at times capable – as Antoine Kreydenweiss had remarked of his 2008s – of projecting a sense of their sites without obviously revealing their varietal identity. I did not taste several slowly-evolving 2009s, including a Clos Rebberg Pinot Gris that was still fermenting when I visited last November.No current U.S. importer.
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