Marc Kreydenweiss Pinot Blanc Kritt Les Charmes, Alsace, France

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Apple blossom and subtle suggestions of musk and smoked meat in the nose of Kreydenweiss’s 2008 Pinot Blanc Kritt introduce a silken palate alluringly loaded with succulent sweet corn and crisp apple and winter pear fruit, and tinged with smoke and salt that really get my salivary glands flowing as part of a long finish. As Antoine Kreydenweiss observes, it’s unusual to get this much acidity or for that matter sheer concentration in a Pinot Blanc, and what’s more in this vintage he not only could but needed to harvest the fruit much later than in other recent years. The true Pinot Blanc – as opposed to the wine’s roughly 50% Auxerrois – certainly seems to take the lead. I would look for at least 7-9 years of delicious versatility from this beauty which – in ex-cellar terms at least – represents an excellent value. Antoine Kreydenweiss is now running his family’s Alsace domaine on an ongoing basis, while his father Marc concentrates on their property in the Costieres de Nimes. I was dismayed – especially in view of such high-quality 2009s and 2008s – to learn that this justly-renowned domaine for the time being no longer has a U.S. importer. Most of the 2008s received 15 months’ elevage. The 2009s were all harvested early even by vintage standards and harbor nuances not found in most Alsace wines of their vintage, being at times capable – as Antoine Kreydenweiss had remarked of his 2008s – of projecting a sense of their sites without obviously revealing their varietal identity. I did not taste several slowly-evolving 2009s, including a Clos Rebberg Pinot Gris that was still fermenting when I visited last November.No current U.S. importer.