Marc Kreydenweiss Riesling Clos Rebberg, Alsace, France

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The alkaline and stony elements displayed by the corresponding Riesling are predictably only accentuated when it comes to Kreydenweiss’s 2008 Riesling Clos Rebberg, along with a crystalline, shimmering sense of mineral interaction with lime and grapefruit. It’s not often one has this sort of impression from a Riesling that has undergone malo-lactic transformation. The overall effect is relatively discreet but lovely, and I suspect one can look for at least 10-12 years of satisfaction, quite possibly with additional complexity emerging. Antoine Kreydenweiss is now running his family’s Alsace domaine on an ongoing basis, while his father Marc concentrates on their property in the Costieres de Nimes. I was dismayed – especially in view of such high-quality 2009s and 2008s – to learn that this justly-renowned domaine for the time being no longer has a U.S. importer. Most of the 2008s received 15 months’ elevage. The 2009s were all harvested early even by vintage standards and harbor nuances not found in most Alsace wines of their vintage, being at times capable – as Antoine Kreydenweiss had remarked of his 2008s – of projecting a sense of their sites without obviously revealing their varietal identity. I did not taste several slowly-evolving 2009s, including a Clos Rebberg Pinot Gris that was still fermenting when I visited last November.No current U.S. importer.