The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vignaferrovia, a new bottling, is sweet, rich and layered in its fruit. This is a decidedly firm Brunello in need of a few years in the cellar to soften the firm yet refined tannins. Red raspberries, flowers and sweet spices are some of the nuances that emerge on the round, creamy finish. There is quite a bit of volume and richness, but the greater presence of oak has left the Riserva with some slightly oxidative qualities and less overall freshness than is typically the case here. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was very impressed with both Brunellos I tasted from Antinori this year. Stylistically the wines seem to be placing more emphasis on elegance over sheer power and the results are striking.Importer: Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Woodinville, WA, tel. (425) 415-3738
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