Marion Calto Rosso Veronese IGT, Veneto, Italy

馬里恩酒莊卡爾托紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4871

A groundbreaking and delicious blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet, Oseleta and Croatina, the 2008 Calto is unlike any wine you will ever taste. This cultural hybrid delivers the sensual softness of the indigenous grapes contrasted against the linear focus and power of the international varieties. This is a wine of enormous breadth and possibility to match a varied assortment of Italian and exotic meat dishes (especially those involving marinated beef). It’s a fleshy, masculine expression with dark tones of purple fruit and prune, spice, leather and darkly roasted coffee bean. The wine transmits sensations of austerity and sophisticated intensity. Drink 2015-2025. At the end of a long, cypress-lined drive is magic Marion. More than anyone else (including much bigger names), Stefano and Nicoletta Campedelli represent the purest expression of non-Classico Amarone that I know. Located in Marcellise in the eastern part of Valpolicella, their wines show a charmingly wild, crisp and edgy quality that you don’t find in the nearby Valpolicella Classico zone. Stefano is an accidental winemaker: He started out by producing gift bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon to give to guests at his 1993 wedding. His gift keeps on giving. Importer: Omniwines Distributing, www.omniwines.com

The 2006 Calto is a blend of Valpolicella, Amarone and Teroldego meant to bridge the gap between the estate’s Valpolicella and Amarone bottlings. Tobacco, incense, tar, rose petals and dark red cherries are some of the notes that flow from this deep, imposing wine. Firm tannins frame the long, intense finish. The 2006 can be enjoyed today, but it has more than enough muscle to age beautifully for at least a few more years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Stefano and Nicoletta Campedelli make some of the most compelling wines in Veneto. The current vintage for the estate’s flagship wines is 2007, a year that yielded soft, open reds. As good as the 2007s are, I don’t find the visceral thrill of the estate’s best years, which includes 2001, 2004 and 2006. The Valpolicella, Teroldego and Cabernet are made partly from dried grapes. Roughly 30% of the fruit is dried for 30-40 days, which gives those wines quite a bit of personality and class. Recent bottles of the 2006 Valpolicella and Amarone have been stunning.Importer: Omniwines Distributing Co. Llc., Linden Hill, NY; tel. (718) 353-8700

The 2005 Calto is a blend of 60-65% Valpolicella Superiore and 35-40% Teroldego. The Calto literally dazzles on the palate with gorgeous depth in its vibrant red fruit. Sweet spices, tobacco, leather and licorice come together in the glass, adding further layers of complexity and nuance. This is a super-impressive effort in what was a very challenging harvest. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. Proprietors Stefano and Nicoletta Campedelli have established themselves as among the most promising young producers in Italy. I never pass up an opportunity to drink one of their wines. This is yet another fabulous set of new releases. Importer: Omniwines Distributing Co., Linden Hill, NY; tel. (718) 353-8700

The 2004 Calto is 50% Valpolicella Superiore, 25% Teroldego and 25% Amarone. This silky, refined wine oozes class and elegance. Dark red fruit, menthol, licorice and new leather are some of the nuances that are woven into a mid-weight, elegant frame. Once again, I am deeply impressed. This is a wonderful effort from Marion that should drink beautifully with a minimum of cellaring. Readers should note that this wine was accidentally bottled with corks intended for the estate’s 2005s. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. I was quite simply blown away by the wines I tasted at Marion this year. In the difficult 2005 vintage proprietors Stefano and Nicoletta Campedelli opted not to make their Amarone, but fans of this small estate will nevertheless find much to admire among these new releases. Readers visiting Veneto should make an effort to visit this gorgeous property. The vineyards are tended with maniacal passion, and that attention to detail comes through in spades in these wines. Today Valpolicella remains dominated by two towering figures; Giuseppe Quintarelli and Romano dal Forno. Stefano Campedelli is high on my list of young producers with the energy, inspiration and potential to reach the same level one day. And that day may very well be fast approaching. Importer: Omniwines Distributing Co. Llc., Linden Hill, NY; tel. (718) 353-8700