The 2009 Valpolicella Superiore represents an ambitious leap into elegant and nuanced winemaking. Stefano Campedelli decided years ago not to jump onto the Ripasso bandwagon when that category started growing in popularity. Instead, he tells me, he wanted to focus on this wine because it has deeper roots in true local tradition. The results are confident and compelling, with bright tones of red cherry, dried blackberry, spice, toasted cumin seed and lightly roasted almond. The wine delivers a great sense of power and importance without going overboard. Drink 2015-2020.
At the end of a long, cypress-lined drive is magic Marion. More than anyone else (including much bigger names), Stefano and Nicoletta Campedelli represent the purest expression of non-Classico Amarone that I know. Located in Marcellise in the eastern part of Valpolicella, their wines show a charmingly wild, crisp and edgy quality that you don’t find in the nearby Valpolicella Classico zone. Stefano is an accidental winemaker: He started out by producing gift bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon to give to guests at his 1993 wedding. His gift keeps on giving.
Importer: Omniwines Distributing, www.omniwines.com