More up the ladder from Vitoria’s crianza, but also more raisiny and oaky. The wine develops nicely with air, shedding raisin for more of the fruit spectrum. Meanwhile, the oak is strong and obvious, leaving vanilla, toast and spice on the finish. Otherwise, it has the same flavor profile and acidic kick as the crianza. Drink now through 2013. ——M.S.(2/1/2011)—— 88
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