Melsheimer Riesling Molun 1143

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The 2009 Riesling Molun 1143 refers to the date on which this place name was first used for a narrow delta of steep terraces that Melsheimer recently reconstructed and replanted, at the margins of which are some old vines whose fruit is the basis for the present dry Riesling. If the Langeberg trocken was already tactile, this Molun is more so, vividly suggesting crushed stone suffusing melons and lemon juice, with roasted root vegetable suggestions of subtle herbacity, bitterness, and at the same time caramelization. And talk about “chew” (as I already did in connection with the Langeberg), this will keep your mandibles exercised as well as salivating. I can imagine it being worth following for more than half a dozen years, but that is a safe parameter. I was so fascinated by the highly distinctive wines I tasted last year from organic pioneer Melsheimer (reported on in issue 187, where I also describe some of the many sites he cultivates) that I felt compelled to return. Unfortunately, he was abroad selling for the entire time that I spent in Germany, but I visited and tasted a substantial portion of the 2009 collection with his family. Several dry wines, including some he considers among his top lots were, however, in too unfinished a state even in September for him to be willing to show them to me, and it is to be expected that some of his 2009s will only be offered for sale next year. So far, I have tasted relatively few older Melsheimer wines, and they are all conspicuously (I mean sensorially, not merely on paper) low in sulfur, so I prefer to be both conservative and vague in any prognoses of age-ability.Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799