Melsheimer Reiler Mullay Hofberg Riesling Beerenauslese

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The Melsheimer 2009 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Riesling Beerenauslese is muted in aroma in comparison with the other sweet wines in this year’s collection, and there might even be a connection between this and its sheer abundance of residual sugar. That said, the suggestions of liquid lily and gardenia perfume with caramel and honey are certainly persistent and the silky smooth palate seductive in and of itself. This needs 15-20 years evolution in the course of which it will hopefully display more sense of counterpoint and complexity of aroma. But as I have been compelled to note on several occasions, thus far I lack the experience with older Melsheimer wines from which to hazard an at all secure prognosis. I have, however, little doubt that many tasters with a sweet tooth will already delight in this.I was so fascinated by the highly distinctive wines I tasted last year from organic pioneer Melsheimer (reported on in issue 187, where I also describe some of the many sites he cultivates) that I felt compelled to return. Unfortunately, he was abroad selling for the entire time that I spent in Germany, but I visited and tasted a substantial portion of the 2009 collection with his family. Several dry wines, including some he considers among his top lots were, however, in too unfinished a state even in September for him to be willing to show them to me, and it is to be expected that some of his 2009s will only be offered for sale next year. So far, I have tasted relatively few older Melsheimer wines, and they are all conspicuously (I mean sensorially, not merely on paper) low in sulfur, so I prefer to be both conservative and vague in any prognoses of age-ability.Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799