The 2004 Burrweiler Schawer Riesling Spatlese trocken smells of lemon oil, chrysanthemum, and resin, almost like a Muskateller. The sappy, pungent, floral palate impression encompasses an oily texture and persistently juicy fruit character that helps to alleviate a tendency this wine has toward austerity. The finish is as adamantly mineral as the (for the Pflaz) unusual slate origins of the site. The astonishingly high quality achieved at this estate in the last several vintages – near the apex of the Pfalz pecking order – represent a hard act to follow. There have been a few personnel changes: first Werner Sebastian and then Michael Leibrecht have departed as vineyard manager and cellar master respectively, and Gregor Mebmer’s brother Martin (who showed me the wines this year) has joined the team. For whatever reason, there were not as many exciting wines this year as in other recent years, although there is one, by now almost predictably, that must on no account be missed. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300