Michel Colin-Deleger et Fils La Maltroie, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France

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Revealing a creamed anise-dominated nose, the light to medium-bodied 2003 Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie (white) bursts forth with appealingly expressive flavors of spicy pears. This wine would have earned a better score if its finish were not clipped short. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.

The 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie bursts from the glass with white flower aromas. Suave, generous, and supple, it is a deep, medium-bodied effort packed with minerals, rocks and pears. It should be consumed over the next 6 years. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725; Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524