From the Evergreen Vineyard, in the Ancient Lakes region north of the Wahluke Slope, this is surprisingly high-powered, at 13.9% alcohol, with a big smack of oak in the nose. That oak is wrapped around green banana and green apple fruit, with a little vanilla on the side. As young as it is, it seems likely to knit together and improve over the next year or two. ——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 88