Moccagatta Cole Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

摩卡加塔酒莊科爾巴巴萊斯科紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：829

The 2011 Barbaresco Cole is a soft and yielding expression of Nebbiolo with soft contours of red fruit, spice, leather, licorice and balsam herb. The oak use (18 months in barrel) is evident, but the wine folds seamlessly into one on the palate, even at this young stage. The mouthfeel is fleshed out and long lasting. Drink: 2016-2026. Importer: De Grazia Import, www.marcdegrazia.com

The 2010 Barbaresco Cole is where I think Moccagatta starts to exaggerate the use of oak. This loud and oversized wine requires much more time in the bottle for the full integration of the wood nuances, if indeed they do integrate. Dark, fleshy consistency is backed by a long train of spice, cinnamon and toasted almond. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The Minuto family has been growing grapes since the 1800s, starting with great-great-grandfather Giovanni Minuto. Over the years, each successive generation (great-grandfather Luigi, grandfather Mario, followed by brothers Sergio and Franco) has made important contributions to elevate this estate’s status to one of the finest in Barbaresco. Cousins Martina and Stefano are the youngest generation to join in these efforts. Moccagatta’s signature winemaking style often polarizes people, dividing them into two camps: Those that love this fleshy and modern style, and others who find it over the top. There’s nothing wrong with indulging in Nebbiolo’s softer side – especially with a beautiful vintage like 2010. Importer: De Grazia Imports, Republic; MO; tel. (417) 732-1668

Moccagatta’s 2009 Barbaresco Cole comes across as quite inward, as it often does at this stage in its life. At the same time, it is surprisingly medium in body, with less of the power and sheer depth than is often the case. Hints of overripe fruit and a generally forward character linger on an intense, dark finish layered with black fruit, menthol, spices and licorice. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a solid set of wines from Moccagatta, a producer who doesn’t seem to get enough attention these days. Moccagatta’s Barbareschi have the virtue of being accessible young, but also developing nicely in bottle. The 2009s are quite open and pleasing. They don’t have a ton of color, even within the standards of Nebbiolo, and frankly I am not sure how they will age. I say that with full knowledge the estate’s wines traditionally have aged well and that Nebbiolo, when it surprises, usually does so on the side of longevity. The 2010 Barbareschi had just been bottled at the time of my visit. There is plenty to look forward to with that vintage as well. In fact, those wines are shaping up to be gems. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The 2008 Barbaresco Cole shows a very different side of Nebbiolo than the estate’s other two Barbareschi. It is a deeper, darker wine loaded with super-ripe black cherries, leather, licorice and tar, all of which are framed by insistent, masculine tannins. The French oak adds a measure of textural richness, but is nicely balanced. This brooding Barbaresco needs a few more years in bottle, but it is quite striking. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. This is one of the strongest sets of wines I can remember from Moccagatta. The entry-level offerings are absolutely delicious and reasonably priced. The Barbareschi are elegant and polished, with less overt oakiness than was once common. Moccaggatta’s 2008s are among the best Barbareschi in what has proven to be a highly irregular vintage. Simply put, I can’t say enough good things about these wines. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2007 Barbaresco Cole emerges from the glass with black cherries, mocha, menthol, spices, new leather and minerals, all wrapped around an intense wall of tannins. This powerful, muscular Barbaresco is pretty atypical in 2007, but it is fabulous just the same. The only thing the Cole needs is time. It is one of the very finest wines I have ever tasted from Moccagatta. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. This is a beautiful set of wines from the Minuto brothers. The wines show terrific balance and harmony. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; tel. (630) 422-1119